Friday, 23 September 2011

Padre Pio Land - San Giovanni Rotondo, Italy

In December of 2009, my family gave me a memorable gift  to celebrate a milestone birthday - to visit Padre Pio in San Giovanni Rotondo, then to Rome.
As we were about to land in Bari, which is the closest airport to San Giovanni Rotondo, the view of the snow-covered mountain ranges confirmed the www.weather.com forecast: wintry cold weather conditions. My friend, Choy Arnaldo, describes Bari as "... it used to be a small town but very prosperous with lots of business from coal to diamonds. Today, it is an amazing industrial complex amidst traditional grapevines and rural peasantry! You can taste old Italy here!"

From Bari, we took a 1 1/2 hour cab ride and headed to Padre Pio land, San Giovanni Rotondo.
Our hotel - Hotel Gran Paradiso, was booked online. The location turned out so perfectly. As we crossed the street...
we walked straight onto this path, from the lower street level,

 to get to the Basilica di S. Padre Pio.
The basilica was designed by the world-renowned Italian architect, Renzo Piano. 

This modern architecture garnered much critical publicity at the initial stages, for looking more like a stadium rather than a house for pilgrims. Note that the roof is patterned after a snail shell.

In the exterior setting is an open space - with an outdoor altar for use on big occasions,  designed to hold more pilgrims on big feasts and other celebrations, as the screen doors (next to the outdoor altar on the left) open, connecting it to the interior church space.
Water element in the landscape

This reminded me of the Jordan River - the cleansing waters of of Jesus' Baptism as he was baptized there; and the set of olive trees was symbolic of the Garden of Olives, where Jesus prayed for the mission he was to carry out for the forgiveness of our sins and the redemption of our souls.
This is the interior shot of the screen (next to the indoor altar) that opens the church to the outdoor space.
From behind the altar is the center point from which the arch-support structures for the whole building emanates...
supplemented by smaller arches in between the main support arches, that aid in carrying the load of the ceiling.
In the lower level of the basilica is this chapel.

Today, I reminisced about my trip to San Giovanni Rotondo as we celebrated the feast of Saint Pio (Padre Pio of Pietrelcina). His parents were peasant farmers - Grazio and Giuseppa Forgione. When he was born (May 25, 1887), he was christened "Francesco," in honor of St. Francis of Assisi. Even in his youthful days, he was very devout and was specially drawn to the priesthood. He became a Capuchin novice at sixteen years old and became a priest after he studied for seven years, in 1910, and became Padre Pio. 
The new basilica is situated next to the old Chiesa de Santa Maria delle Grazie (1969), where his body lies in state.
This is the old church where Padre Pio served, which remains as a church, today. It also houses the museum where the memorabilia of Padre Pio details his life and works as a priest and a miracle worker. Padre Pio is a canonized saint in the Roman Catholic Church.
It was in September, 1918, that he had received the stigmata - the signs of the crucifixion of Christ Jesus in the form of wounds in the same spots Jesus' body was nailed to the cross,  while praying before a large crucifix. He was the first priest to receive the stigmata. By the time of his death in 1968, there were no visible signs of his wounds on his hands and on his feet, not even scars. He was heard to have said, fifty years before, that his wounds were going to heal before his death.
In this room, all the shelves are cramped with letters of thanks from people who had received healing through the intercession of Padre Pio, while he was still alive.

There were other mystical details about Padre Pio's life. There are witnesses who claim that he had bilocated and visited them while they were praying, as they asked him to intercede for them. He came, on several occasions, to visit people in different parts of the world to let them know that their prayers were being heard. 
In the lower level, a special place has been organized for pilgrims to be able to pay homage and pray for his intercession for whatever petitions they carried in their hearts. 
Here is where he lies in state, in a glass coffin,...
protected by an ornate metal covering. The glass coffin is exposed for public viewing at special times of the year.
Because of inclement weather, we missed the chance to climb the hundreds of steps in this structure across the street from the old Chiesa di Padre Pio, as it was closed to the public. This is the outdoor setting where pilgrims pray and follow the Way of the Cross.
One other prominent structure - next to the outdoor Way of the Cross, is the hospital (white, big structure) Casa Sollievo della Sofferenza (Home for the Relief of Suffering built under the supervision of Padre Pio in 1940 and opened in 1956.

Padre Pio, who was originally from Pietrelcina, was sent to the remote town of San Giovanni Rotondo when he received the stigmata.  But soon, this town became a destination for many who wanted to see him, hear him, and meet him. Many healings and other miracles were attributed to his intercession, and the word got around. One of his visitors was Cardinal Karol Wojtyla - who was the cardinal of Krakow, Poland, at the time. Padre Pio told him that he was going to become pope, one day. And he did, as Pope John Paul ll. 

He was a "reader of souls." Sometimes, the people who went to him to make their confessions were reminded about their sins, which they had failed to confess. People also went to him to seek counsel about their daily and spiritual lives. Not only was he devoted to the people he helped, but also to the souls in purgatory who were in need of prayers and masses to be said for them. He had lead the life of a servant leader. Here is a movie link about the man called Padre Pio.

It was on September 23, 1968 that Padre Pio breathed his last. Thousands and thousands came to mourn his passing and to pay their last respects. 

At this time of the year, a great number of pilgrims go to San Giovanni Rotonda to commemorate his death anniversary. It's a pleasant time to go to this sacred destination. While the weather is mild, it gets to be crowded. In the winter time, it's cold and freezing, but you have the place all to yourself.  Whether you "meet" him in the spring, summer, fall or winter, allow yourself to get to know and to be inspired by him. He is a good example of what a man of God is.
We found time to explore and walk around the town, to find and have lunch at Trattoria la Sosta - a restaurant known for their Italian country cooking.
As we walked, we also got to see others parts of the city, while the weather was changing rapidly.
On our 3rd day, our last day, we were up early. We took pictures of the view from our hotel room. Here is a housing subdivision.
The presence of a crane tells of continuing development in the area.

After breakfast, we were back on the road again. As we drove through the country side, we took a last look at San Giovanni Rotondo. As planned, we were going to make 3 stops before heading to the airport. The drive out of San Giovanni Rotondo was about an hour to our first stop. We opted for an early, light lunch at Osteria Antica Piazzetta.

Back on the road, we looked forward to our next visit - the Church of St. Michel Archangel. By this time, the weather had turned to snowy-stormy weather. We'll continue the pilgrimage in my next post. Until then, let's pray for one another.

Friday, 16 September 2011

The Newly Opened Pizzeria Mozza in Newport Beach, California

Without any fanfare, but just from the tweeted messages of the principals of this place, people flocked to the opening of Pizzeria Mozza, on West Coast Highway in Newport Beach, in So. California. That was two weeks ago. This new place - the hottest place for food and wine enthusiasts among the Newport Beach crowd and Orange County residents, is the brainchild of three renowned personalities: Nancy Silverton of La Brea Bakery and former co-owner of Campanille, Mario Batali  - the New York chef who brings us "simplicity and freshness" in his Italian cuisine on the food channel; and Joe Bastianich, a restauranteur.

With their flagship location in Los Angeles born in 2006, there was much excitement for a branch to be opened in Orange County. On a Wednesday early evening, we took our chance and dared to join the line at Pizzeria Mozza. It was 6:45 p.m., and we got as far as being  listed down and given a notice of a two-hour wait. We decided to go somewhere else for an appetizer, with the intention of going back.
.
We did go back after an hour and were delighted that we were seated quite fast, way less than the other hour we were supposed to wait.
This venue has a very simple architectural design and the wow factor was this wall, herb garden. This is a certified green restaurant.
We easily identified the rosemary, coriander, the variegated sage, and the squash plant.
This was the first noticeable scene as we entered the restaurant, where the people were standing, seating and socializing while watching the kitchen activities.
A chef prepares multiple pizza orders
After stretching the dough to make a thin crust, oil is dabbed in random parts before anything else is added. Then the creativity begins ... like adding the petals of the squash flower, and so on. 
A chef checks on his pizzas cooking in the stone oven
These were not your typical pizza varieties. With very little mozzarella cheese, and sometimes even without the use of tomato sauce, the pizzas had very distinct flavors.
Chilled wine sitting on the kitchen-bar counter
 
Once we were seated, we discussed our tasty interests for the evening, as we perused the menu. Here are the food concepts that whet our appetites.
Fried Squash Blossoms with Ricotta
A delicate flower to hold the filling, then battered for deep frying, tempura style.
Bone Marrow al forno
Something Different! On a buttered or oiled toast, spread the garlic, some grilled bone marrow, and sprinkle some coriander leaves ... so rich and flavorful!
 Piatti del Giorno Mercoledi: Bacalá al forno with tomato, chick peas, and fried rosemary (salted cod-fish)
This was the specialty of the day, for Wednesday.

For our puffy, thin-crust pizza selections:
Pizette: Ipswich clams, garlic, chiles, oregano, Parmigiano and Pecorino
Bacon, Finnochiona, fennel sausage (freshly made) guancile, tomato, mozzarella,  and Shiitake mushrooms were added upon our request
Squash blossoms, tomato and burrata (cheese)
Mama mia! These were all so tasty and delicious.

For the finale, we had to have our dolci.
(Left) Sorbetti/Gelati: Tahitian Vanilla, Olive Oil, Melon
(Right) Butterscotch Budino with Maldon sea salt and rosemary pine-nut cookies
The unique ice cream and sherbet flavors turned out to be most pleasing,  complemented by the butterscotch pudding, topped with salted caramel and those mini cookies.


We ended up eating family style, sharing everything. For five people, this turned out to be a lot of food. Era tutto molto buono! 

While my friends and I came here to eat, some come to have a drink or two, with good company.

With their remarkable talents, Mario Batali, Nancy Silverton, and Joe Bastianich have teamed up with a passionate commitment  to "product, environment and hospitality." We gave them excellent marks for all three and were more than satisfied with their food concepts, the ambiance, and the service.

Be it in Los Angeles at 641 North Highland, or in Orange County, going to Mozza is a food trip extraordinaire. Buon appetito!

Pizzeria Mozza
800 West Coast Highway, Newport Beach
Tel. (949) 945 1126
Open daily except on Mondays, 12:00 noon to 11:00 p.m.

Monday, 12 September 2011

Claude Monet's Murals at the Musée L'Orangerie, Paris, France

After visiting Monet's house and garden in Giverny, where we have gotten an idea of Monet's surroundings, a visit to the Musée L'Orangerie  is the next thing to do. This is where his last series of paintings are displayed, the ones that were inspired by the scenic water-lily pond.
Originally designed as a winter greenhouse for the orange trees at the Jardin des Tuileries (Tuileries Garden) by Firmin Bourgeois and completed by Ludovico Visconti in 1852, the Musée L'Orangerie was renovated by architect Camille Lefevre - in consultation with Monet, as to how to present his paintings. It opened it's doors as a museum in May, 1927, about five months after the death of Monet. It closed in 1999 to undergo some redesigning and restructuring.

After some delay, it was in 2006 that the Musée L'Orangerie was reopened after six years of renovation work, which was estimated at a budget of twenty five million euros. With a reconfiguration of the exhibition rooms, Monet's eight masterpieces were now the focal point in two elliptical rooms on the upper floor, solely dedicated to his series of water-lily paintings, Les Nymphéas, measuring two meters high and 100 meters long, in total. 

The rooms were especially designed to bring in the light, to enhance the light elements - the different hours of the day as captured by Monet in his paintings. This was achieved by painting the rooms in ivory-white and with the installation of a circular skylight. 

When you come to see Monet's masterpieces, there are cushioned, long, curved benches where you could sit to study the master's works - looking at the different sections and taking note of certain elements, or you may prefer to get up close as you walk around. The students who come in groups, sit on the floor to listen to a lecture. There are also audio guides for rent, if you prefer to have your own guided tour.

A silent atmosphere is maintained, and this helps one to meditate and find himself in the artist's place, perhaps, as the scene was being painted. 
Clear tree and plant reflections, the blue sky on the water, on a sunny day, with light and shadow casts.


Monet was an outdoor painter, for the most part. Here are a few of the murals he made in the last twenty plus years of his life.

"Morning"

"The Morning Light the Willows"

"Cloud Reflections on the Water Lily Pond"



 "Green Highlights"
Details of the water lilies on the right-side corner of the mural

"Sunset"
Close up of the water lilies...the buds are closed. 

A mural from two angles:

"The Two Willows"

In the late 1950s, the museum was gifted with the art collections of Jean Walter and Paul Guillaume. Now a part of the permanent exhibition, the works of famous artists - impressionist and post-impressionist - like Cézanne, Matisse, Utrillo, Picasso, Renoir and others can be viewed on the lower level .
"Arbes et Maison"  (1885-1886)
Paul CÉZANNE 1839-1906
 "Paysage"(1901)
Paul GAUGUIN 1848 - 1903
 "Gabrielle et Jean" (1895-1896)
Pierre-Auguste RENOIR 1814 - 1919

Special exhibitions are scheduled at different times of the year.
A past exhibition was about Gino Severini, Futuriste et Neoclassique. This was the first retrospective presentation of Severini's works since they were last exhibited at the National Museum of Modern Art in Paris, in 1967. The major stages of Severini's career from 1905 to towards the end of the 1930s were showcased.


When you visit Paris in the spring and summer, or in the early fall, don't miss coming to this place if you are a Monet fan.



Jardin des Tuileries (facing Place de la Concorde)
1st arrondisement
Metro: Lines 1, 8, 12 Exit - Concorde
Bus Lines: 24, 42, 52, 72, 73, 84, 94 Stop - Concorde 
Open daily, except on Tuesdays: May 1 to December 25, from 9 a.m. to 6 p.m.
Admissions: 7.50 euros for adults; 5.50 euros for students under 26 years of age
FREE admission on the first Sunday of the month

LinkWithin

Related Posts with Thumbnails